Cait Charles
You’re wandering through a narrow alleyway in India, or perhaps Nepal. It’s a gorgeous, sunny spring morning, and you pause in the street mid-step to ogle at…could it be…?
A pink cow!
You barely register the mischievous giggles from above. Suddenly, a cascade of cool water drenches you from a balcony overhead, followed by animated shouts of ‘Holi hai!’
Before you can catch your breath, a group of children darts out from a doorway. Their clothes are coated in bright fuschia, orange, and green powders–and they’re carrying little bags of these colored powders, their eyes fixed on you.
Is this:
a.) A very rude group of barbarian children
b.) A weird dream
c.) A traditional Hindu holiday
If you guessed ‘a’, you’re right. Foreign children can be savage! Best to steer clear when traveling.
Just kidding. Of course, the answer is ‘c’ – the anecdote above describes the Hindu festival of Holi, which is celebrated across India and Nepal. But what exactly is (playfully) assaulting one another a celebration of?
What the Heck is Holy about Holi?!
Holi marks the end of winter and the beginning of Spring, and that’s reason enough to celebrate – but it wouldn’t be a proper Hindu holiday without a dramatic origin story about good triumphing over evil.
Once upon a time, there was a king, called Hiranyakashipu. (Try saying that three times fast). He was so strong that he could shake the Himalayan mountains and could not be killed by any weapon, man, animal, or god.
Unfortunately, he used his powers for evil – he started acting like a god, and punished or killed anyone who didn’t obey him. That included his son, who had a penchant for disobedience. His son started to worship the Hindu god Vishnu instead of him, so he decided to kill his son, and he enlisted his sister, Holika, to help him with his evil plot.
Holika had a special cloak that protected her from fire, so she agreed to trick her nephew, Prahlad, by leading him into a fire. However, what she didn’t know was that this cloak could only be used for good–so because she was using it for evil, the cloak flew off of her and covered Prahlad instead, saving his life.
Subsequently, Vishnu defeated evil king Hiranyakashipu, and the sacred festival of Holi therefore begins with the lighting of bonfires as a symbol of the triumph of light over darkness (end of winter, remember?) and good over evil.
The next day is when the most fun part of the festivities begin. This is where everyone runs around emphatically throwing colored powder and water on everyone they meet. I ‘played holi’ (as the locals call it) in Nepal a couple of years in a row, and it struck me as one of those social-barrier-breaking occasions that get everyone laughing together, transcending age, gender, and social class gaps. There’s something distinctly joyful about light-heartedly attacking a stranger, or being attacked by one.
Above: Holi powders in bags. Small bags cost a few cents each. Image by Naksh on Pixahive.
Although all this is already crazy enough, I discovered some lesser-known traditions that take the wow factor of this holiday a level higher.
It’s All About the Cows
Holi really brings new meaning to the expression “holy cow!”. Although the holiday is not centered around cows, Indians consider cows to be sacred, so they are very much invited to the party. You might see people painting cows with colors and even offering them treats and food in recognition of their status in Indian society.
Even cows’ waste is considered sacred and healing. Yep, you read that right. That means pee and poop. In a testament to their perceived purity and holiness, cow dung is used to light the bonfires in many regions of rural India and Nepal.
Party with the Royals
In the picturesque lakeside town of Udaipur, the actual local royal family makes holi festivities something to be remembered. They organize a huge royal procession that includes elephants, horses, camels (with royals atop them!) and folk dancers, followed by a day of crazy water and color-throwing. They end the evening with fireworks and a huge bonfire in the palace courtyard, around with traditional cultural dances are performed.
Uncorroborated reports suggest that the royal family might actually play holi (throw colors and water) with the townspeople themselves. Intrigued? Go to Udaipur during holi yourself to find out if it’s true! “I had a color fight with Indian royalty” would make for a brag-worthy travel tale.
Women Beating Men
In the towns of Barsana and Nandgaon, girls beat guys with sticks on holi.
As the story goes, Krishna (an Indian god) was from Nandgaon, and he and his friends wanted to throw colors on his girlfriend, Radha, who was from Barsana–but as the delegation entered Barsana, they were playfully greeted by a stick-wielding group of women comprised of Radha and her friends! Every year, the men of Nandgaon visit Barsana to continue this tradition. A little light beating never hurt anyone!
I Want to Play!
Holi this year falls on Friday, March 15th. It’s really easy to get involved if you’re in India or Nepal at that time. In fact, it’s hard not to get involved. Fair warning–in my experience, you might be attacked, particularly with water, not only on Holi itself, but on the days preceding and following it. For a couple of days before and after Holi, make sure you carry a change of clothes (in a watertight bag) in case you’re doing anything important.
Above: My face covered in holi colors in Nepal. Image by author.
Outside of the Indian subcontinent, there are many smaller celebrations around the world put on by Indian and Nepalese diaspora communities, and they’re typically very welcoming to outsiders. Whether you join a formal, scheduled celebration, get caught in a spontaneous color fight, or both, this is a holiday that will leave you not only with stains on your clothes, but lasting impressions in your memory.
Trevor Carlson
Yvelle Corrielus
